Crispy-Skin Salmon, Grilled or Broiled, with Gingery Greens

Makes 4 servings
Time: 40 to 60 minutes

Still one of my all-time favorite recipes, with the rich flavor of salmon cut by sharp greens and bright ginger. You have some choices when it comes to the vegetable: Substitute green beans, asparagus, any kind of peas, or even grated sweet potato for the greens if you like; add a minute or two to the cooking time as necessary.

One 2-pound salmon fillet, skin on (but scaled)
1 pound kale, collards, or other greens
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons minced or grated fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1. Heat a charcoal or gas grill with a lid or the broiler until moderately hot and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Rinse the fish well and let it rest between paper towels, refrigerated, while you prepare the greens.

2. Wash the greens in several changes of water and remove any pieces of stem thicker than 1/4 inch in diameter. Steam or boil them in a medium saucepan, covered, over or in 1 inch of water until good and soft, 10 minutes or more depending on the green (older collards will require 30 minutes). Drain them, rinse in cool water, squeeze dry, and chop.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet. When hot, add the garlic and cook for 1 minute; do not brown. Add the greens and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes; add the ginger and cook for another minute, then add the soy sauce and sesame oil and turn off the heat. Transfer to a platter and keep warm.

4. With a sharp knife, score the skin of the salmon in a crosshatch pattern. Oil the fish well with the remaining olive oil. Put the fillet on the preheated grill, skin side down, and cover. Or put the fish under the broiler, skin side up. In either case, cook undisturbed until done, 5 to 10 minutes.

5. Remove the fish carefully with a large spatula (or two) and put it on top of the greens. Serve immediately, making sure everyone gets a piece of skin.